Mini Model 3107
This model was a school project, that i decided was worth a worklog. The chair took around a week to build, and was all done by hand.
Syveren – A famous chair made by the Danish architect Arne Jacobsen. This chair is like no other, and have a form that is 10 times more complicated than it looks. Because of this, I have to make an exact copy of the chair in 1 to 5.5 size as a part of my education.
This is a short worklog to show how this was done
First step is to mark up a hard foam block, make reference points and drill a hole in the block.
After that, saw out a rough shape, so that you don’t have to fill until your eyes bleed and your grandsons are born.
After that, just go on with the file, and get a comfy position, since this will take a while.
Hours later – great success! I will not be sanding it down to a fine finish right now, since the work on this is nowhere near done.
Then, measure the original chair, divide by 5.5, take away some foam, measure again, divide, take more away, and continue until you have the desired result.
When done, have a coke and start on the back, measure, divide and hammer away! (not really, be gentle. We don’t want to have to start over again )
When you think you are done, measure again, realize that it’s not perfect and repeat previous two steps – a lot of times. After that, hit the foam with some fine sandpaper. A result is only as good as the form it is made in.
When done, next step is to make this into a form so that we can form the seats.
Before this step, you have to apply a coat of non stick thingie so that you are able to disassembly the whole shubang again!
24 hours later – take the sides off, hit the thing a few times with a hammer (soft – don’t go hulk on it) to loosen it, and disassembly. Don’t mind the… erm… mutated animal and stuff on the top. The hours was getting late, and I had had way to much sugar!
When this is done, inspect the form for any air bubbles that might have formed if you were to fast pouring the forming material. This is also a great chance to see how your form looks like reversed
We know have to soften up two pieces of wood to make the seat. This will be done in a very clean and distilled solution of water and ammonia (lol).
After that, fit the soaked pieces into the form, and watch out not to break them.
Clamp it all together, and put it into an oven for two days to dry, so that the wood can get its form.
Two days later and voila! Now to get these two glued together so that they will keep their form, and gain some strength.
Since we will be working with epoxy, and it will most likely soak out into the form, we apply some wrap so that we don’t destroy the form.
Apply glue, and push the two pieces back together, and close up the form again.
After this, throw the form back into the oven and let the glue dry.
Again, after a day or so in the oven, the piece is taken out. The final shape is marked on the piece, and it is ready for next step.
Which is to sand into its final shape with a dremel and sandpaper.
After this, mount it on a screw with some glue, and then you have to decide if you want it with a clear coat, or with paint. If you want it with paint, you need to apply 3 thin layers of primer, and then 3 layers of paint.
If only clear coat is applied on the final chair, it will look like this.
And here is one with primer + glossy black made by a friend.
In the previous steps there have been a lot of waiting times, and these can be used to make the legs for the chair.
When the legs have been cut and bent to shape, set up a soldering rig, and adjust them with wires so that they fit with, again, the original measurements divided by 5.5
Fixate, and then solder with this puny 250W soldering iron. This soldering iron can also come in handy in case you want to melt an iceberg – the thing is MASSIVE!
When soldering with great success – inspect, drink a coke and take it out and watch it fail. Because chances are it will be just as off as the leaning tower of Pisa.
Now, almost done – just ——> measure the original, divide by 5.5 and have fun adjusting these things while drinking some very healthy fluids that will keep your brain spinning. I made a little wood piece with four holes in it, so I knew exactly where the legs needed to be, and it turned out very useful!
This next step, I sadly did not get to many pictures off. But basically, these are the spacers that have to sit between the chair and the legs. A hole was drilled in some hard foam, and then it was sanded to fit.
Here you can see them mounted.
To cover up the ugly underside where the legs are soldered together, a cap was made from two pieces of fibreglass, that was laid over a mold. When this had dried, I had to dremel the mold away since this was stuck to the fibreglass. To avoid this, use a little piece of wrap between the mold and the fibreglass.
When all this is done, all that should be left to do is to glue the chair and the legs together, hope that it fit, and remember to put the cap in place.
I have chosen to show 2 chairs. The one with the clear coat is the one I made and the orange with the old school look was made by a friend named Boris Raos.
Last but not least, here is a list of the steps of building the chair.
Steps building the chair:
- Create mold (5 hours)
- Spray mold with anti-adhesive so the plaster will let go and let dry (3 hours)
- Pour plaster into mold and let dry (24 hours)
- Cut out two 6 mm wood sheet and soak in a mixture of ammonia and water (4 hours)
- Put wood pieces into the mold, squeeze together and let dry (24 hours)
- Glue wood pieces together with epoxy glue and let dry (24 hours)
- Mark the outer lines of the chair, and fill the chair to its final shape (2 hours)
- Sand chair down, and paint with either clear coat or primer+paint depending on the finish you want. (3 layers with 5 min in between, let dry, sand down, then 3 layers more.)
Steps building the legs
- Cut out 4 pieces of soldering wire (2.5mm) and bend to shape (1 hour)
- Cut out brass disk to solder the legs to, and make soldering “mold/setup” (0.25 hour)
- Put the legs in, and solder together (0.25 hour)
- Adjust legs, and cut to exact length (0.5 hour)
Steps building the bottom capsule and spacers
- Make a mold in the lathe (0.25 hour)
- Put two pieces of fibreglass on the mold, soak in a mixture of epoxy and ethanol and let dry (24 hours)
- Sand the thing, paint and attach to the legs (2 hours)
- Make spacers from foam, or 3d print them (1 hour)